Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Lumbini Nepal

After finished up hiking in the himalayas, I stuck around Pokhara for several days relaxing and checking out the town. I had initially considering staying at one of the health and yoga centers, but being that it is off-season there wasn't much going on at them. I decided to get moving along out of town and visit the birthplace of the Buddha in Lumbini. Located in southern Nepal slightly north of the Indian border, it took a 6+ hr busride to get there. As it is the supposed birthplace of the Buddha, one of the major religions/philosophies of the world, one would think that it would be a huge pilgrammage site on the level of Mecca or Jerusalem. However, it turned out to be quite lowkey. There was a very nice and spacious garden center - referred to as Lumbini Gardens - filled with Buddhist temples representing Buddhism from various Asian countries. Also was a garden area with a holy pond and some ancient ruins with a marker indicating the exact place that the Buddha was said to have been born, over 2500 yrs ago, 500 yrs before the birth of Christ. Outside these building as I was exiting I caught site of a small snake which I was able to catch while creating a small crowd around myself. I released the snake off to the side.


In the sprawling area containing the various Buddhist temples there were two Buddhist meditation retreat centers, one of which - the Panditarama Vipassana Meditation Center - I decided to do a retreat at. Considering that the center has a pretty rigorous schedule - I wasn't sure how long I would be able to last for. The schedule calls for a morning bell at 4am and beginning meditation at 4:30am with a light breakfast at 6am. Then more hrs of meditation till 11am lunch, with a meeting with one of the meditation instructors in between to discuss progress. During the afternoon about 4 more hrs of meditation till a Dharma talk at 5:30pm and evening juice at 7pm, then more meditation in the evening. In all the schedule called for about 14-16 hrs of sitting and walking meditation throughout the day.


I wasn't sure how much of a schedule like this I would be able to handle, also considering that there is only 2 meals a day, no dinner, and complete silence the whole day. However, since I was in the birthplace of the Buddha, and although not a Buddhist myself, considered it a great place to do my first meditation retreat. I signed up for 5 days at first while hoping to complete an entire week. It took several days to get used to the routine but it turned out to be quite peaceful and calm for the most part. The schedule wasn't rigorously enforced and their was no meditation leader at the front guiding along the meditators and cracking any whips. As it was off season the center only included 4 or 5 other meditators

The heat in the area during the hot and humid monsoon season was quite oppressive at times. I would frequently be sitting in the med room and be dripping with sweat running down my forehead and arms. Fortunately we had a number of fans to help in keeping the air cooler. This didn't help however during the periodic times in which the power would go out, at least each evening for varying amts of time. I gotten used to the power outages throughout Nepal, although it is a bit annoying at times being accustomed to 24 hr electric in the west.

The mosquitos were in out in full force during the days, particularly at night. There were plenty of ditches and swamp areas filled up with water from the monsoon rains. Just had to spray myself up extra with repellant, although this often wasn't 100% effective. I could wear pants to keep covered up, but I have experienced mosquitos biting through even my pant material. Thank goodness they supplied mosquito nets around the beds. The worst part of the mosquito bites is the incessant itchiness that occurs after you get bit. It is impossible to not itch the areas, and they normally wind up turning into a rash or minor skin infection.

During the evenings one could hear packs of jackals howling and making lots of noise. It sounded at times like they were much closer than they probably were. Outside the premises were some large fields in several directions with lots of overgrown brush, making for perfect habitat and cover. It was amazing how loud they could get, all joining together in unison howling at each other and other packs in the distance. Then just like that the howling and noise would cease and there would be nothing but the sounds of crickets and insects. I never got a chance to see any of the jackals, although I was told they are somewhat a cross between a hyena and a wild dog. Also in abundance outside the med center was many types of noisy birds I had never heard before. They were especially nice to listen to during the early morning when I was still in a bit of a sleep trance and there noises were extra surreal.

Present at the center were two blind cats the center had taken in. They both had empty pits where there eyes would have been. They seemed to little problem getting around, although they didn't appear to go off too far into the surroundings. The male cat was quite loud, constantly meowing and interrupting the silence of the center.

The meditation practice itself was vipassana, or insight meditation with emphasis on breathing and observing the up and down movements of the abdomen. This was the primary object of observation in addition to walking meditation. Everything was to be conducted with as much mindfulness as possible. Doing this really allows one to be very aware of their body, breathing, and other factors contributing to moment to moment consciousness and well-being. As it is often referred to as insight meditation, insight into one's body and mind are greatly enhanced and one has a chance or opportunity to ultimately learn more about one's nature, particularly at the farther reaches of the practice which are meant to lead to enlightenment and nirvana. This however takes yrs and yrs of dedicated and focused practice.
I was not able to achieve any transcendent states of moments of rapture, but it was definitely a chance to deepen my meditation practice while practicing mindfulness and loosening up my mind. I was pleased that I was able to make it through 7 days, even if I wasn't super strict with myself in following the suggested format of the center. It was meant to be a retreat type format with opportunity to deepen one's practice. There is no way I could live this kind of lifestyle on a fulltime basis. This could be a symptom of my mind avoiding the objective of slowing and calming down
Fortunately the schedule was not enforced super strictly down to the minute and hr. I was able to go to my room when I wanted to practice yoga and do some light exercise in addition to the intense meditation. I realized my disposition is not to set up at the moment for hrs and hrs of meditation at a time. I am too physically oriented and and get too restless to be able to sit down for hrs at a time. The walking meditation started to grow on me after several days and became enjoyable. There is much for me to work on in my mind and emotions. However I was satisfied with my ability to be able to sit down for an hr at a time while doing my best to stay present with my breathing and mindfulness. Like nearly everyone else in the world, my mind has the innate tendency to jump all over the place and it takes lots of work to be able to train and discipline it and get into deeper states of mindfulness and focus. However in practicing meditation for an hr at a time there were times where I would feel greatly enhanced states of calmness and relaxation and my mind slowly starting to focus and slow down for a change.

Didn't get a chance to meet or talk with any of the other meditators at silence was observed at all times to allow for uninterrupted concentration. I was told by one of the meditation directors there - a female Burmese Buddhist nun?, her title was Venerable - that the others had been there for over a month or more apiece. One of the others was a tall German woman who had apparently been there for 2-3 months and was a Dr. back in Germany, i don't know if medical doctor or Doctorate. I was in a dorm room sharing with another guy from New Zealand. He seemed a bit out there as he would be in the meditation room far beyond the time necessary to be there for meditation. I would be trying to sleep around midnight and still hadn't heard him come back to the room. It seemed as though he was taking the retreat to the extremes, working on meditating for over 18-20 hrs a day with minimal sleep. It appeared as though he had a breakdown the one night as he appeared somewhat disturbed the next morning. For all I know he had been up the entire night trying to meditate. He was moving and acting in complete and exaggerated slow- motion and folding up his belongings as though he were exiting. The center director and primary meditative guide - a German man born in Africa and completely fluent in Burmese - I'm not sure what his title was although he was wearing the orange clothing associated with Buddhist monks, had to talk with him a while and bring him back to reality.

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