Finally had a full day off from yoga class so I decided to explore the island some more and check out some beaches on the far side of the island I hadn't been too.
The previous night I had been at the Black Moon party, referred to as Black Moon Culture on flyers and advertisements, and didn't get home till 5am. Had a good time at the party with some friends from yoga class. It was held on a beach on the southern side of the island, near Haad Rin which hosts the monthly Full Moon Party. Danced some and drank some beer but otherwise didn't have too wild a time. Had been hoping to have a happy shake as they are referred to on the island. They contain some kind of mushrooms i'm not too familiar with but was told make you feel good in natural drugfree way. Unfortunately they weren't available at the party site so settled for a few beers. Mostly the beach was filled with a bunch of Europeans and other numerous Thais attempting to sell ectasy, acid, and other dangerous drugs. Lots of techno, trance, jungle, and other varieties of rave style music conducive to such a party. Many people getting their bodies painted up with designs glowing in the purple lights. Others out on the beach playing with fire and doing all kinds of crazy stuff. Was a good time but nothing amazingly incredible that I need to go back again. Also seemed like too many guys and not enough girls. I guess it didn't really matter though since I was there with some nice looking chicks from class.
Sunday morning got up a bit later than I hoped from having been up so late and jumped on my bike to get out in the sun and explore the island. My first stop was beach of Thong Nai Pan in northeastern Ko Phangan. A beautiful and isolated beach that took me about an hr getting to driving on beat up and rutted mostly dirt roads through the mountains. Alot of dust driving on these roads from pickup trucks and other large construction trucks kicking it into the air. Lots of construction and development going on in areas throughout the island with this side no exception.
After Thong Nai Pan Yai I headed south back where I came from and turned down another road leading east to a series of waterfalls and carvings on rock from past Thai Kings. I didn't visit them all but was able to see one of the rocks where King Rama V carved into. This carving was located at the Thongnang Monastery. This I checked out and was shown around by one of the monks living on the grounds. I only saw 2 monks present, one older in his 50's and another in his early teens. Perhaps there were others off in a separate area of the Monastery but I didn't see any others. They tried to interest me in coming back and spending a few nights meditating at there facility. I was shown a small primitive looking shack in which I would spend the night. Nothing but a small, cramped up space with concrete floor and no door, perfect for insects and spiders to crawl up with me. Certainly not be a cozy situation but would definitely make my trip to the island more memorable. When my time at Agama Yoga is up after the 30 days I am considering heading back and giving it a shot for a night or two.
After visiting the Thongnang Monastery I kept heading east to check another one remote beach highly recommended by the authors of Lonely Planet travel guide. The roads were very tricky but I was able to make it too my destination soon enough. Arrived at the small and neighboring beaches of Haad Sadet and Haad Thong Reng, very isolated by themselves on the east side of the island. I would image most people arrive at these beaches via boat as the roads were very primitive and would be very tough carrying luggage and other gear on a motor bike. Much different than the west side of the island, the ocean gets deeper much quicker and had more waves than the calm and relatively placid ocean on the other side of the ocean. Beautiful beaches with bungalows and cottages high up into the cliffs on the side. I didn't have much time to hang out or jump in the ocean for a swim as it was getting late in the afternoon and about time to get back on the roads before it got dark out. Along with Bottle Beach, I would consider these two beaches the most secluded and peaceful I had visited so far. There are several more isolated beachs areas south of these two on the way to the southeast corner of the island that I hope to explore later on. The southeast corner of the island is referred to as Haad Rin. It is the party capital of the island where the monthly full moon party occurs
Thursday, January 24, 2008
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Thai Massage classes at Cosmic Energy Massage
I have added to my already busy schedule while in Ko Phangan and started classes on thai massage at Cosmic Energy Massage. I enrolled in a 30 hr program where I am able to work basically 1 on 1 with the head teacher, Mr. Roeng. Mr. Roeng, i'm not sure of his first name, owns three massage business on the island with his wife and primarily occupies himself with managing and teaching during the day. While driving down the main road near my guesthouse I noticed his business and an advertisement for thai massage classes. I suppose I had a good vibe off of his business and himself personally, or just really wanted to start taking classes on the form of massage prevelant to Thailand, but I signed up without even receiving a thai massage personally from Mr. Roeng. However, during the first day in class with himself and another woman, Audra, a medical doctor from California and also taking yoga classes from Agama Yoga, I found out that he is a very skilled practitioner and I look forward to learning much from him.
Mr. Roeng, 37, is a graduate of the famous Wat Po massage school in Bangkok in addition to learning from many other teachers in Thai massage and Thai healing arts. Just feeling his strength while working on me and seeing the muscles popping off of his thumbs you sense he is well practiced. He says he has been practicing thai massage for over 10 yrs. So far the best part about learning with him and his wife, also a thai massage teacher, is the 1 on 1 attention received. They said classes at Wat Po typically involve large numbers of people and frequently the teachers talk on a microphone. So far in 3 days I have either worked on Audra or his wife, often with him a step away to teach and provide feedback. We have a instruction manual with sequences of up to 90 steps, good for a 2 hr thai massage session.
I look forward to gaining a solid foundation of Thai massage training while at Cosmic Energy. From there I will expand my teachings while traveling to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. Here there are a number of renowned teachers and schools I look forward to checking out. I may also take a workshop at the Horizon Muay Thai Boxing Camp at Haad Tien Bay in Ko Phangan. Horizon Camp occassionally offers Thai massages workshops focused on working on athletes, specifically Thai kickboxers.
Mr. Roeng, 37, is a graduate of the famous Wat Po massage school in Bangkok in addition to learning from many other teachers in Thai massage and Thai healing arts. Just feeling his strength while working on me and seeing the muscles popping off of his thumbs you sense he is well practiced. He says he has been practicing thai massage for over 10 yrs. So far the best part about learning with him and his wife, also a thai massage teacher, is the 1 on 1 attention received. They said classes at Wat Po typically involve large numbers of people and frequently the teachers talk on a microphone. So far in 3 days I have either worked on Audra or his wife, often with him a step away to teach and provide feedback. We have a instruction manual with sequences of up to 90 steps, good for a 2 hr thai massage session.
I look forward to gaining a solid foundation of Thai massage training while at Cosmic Energy. From there I will expand my teachings while traveling to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. Here there are a number of renowned teachers and schools I look forward to checking out. I may also take a workshop at the Horizon Muay Thai Boxing Camp at Haad Tien Bay in Ko Phangan. Horizon Camp occassionally offers Thai massages workshops focused on working on athletes, specifically Thai kickboxers.
Being mindful of the moment
I am learning the importance of being in the present moment my time here in Ko Phangan. Too many times I catch my mind drifting off into thoughts totally irrevelant to my time here in Thailand. Often I will be in yoga class, snorkeling, hiking, etc and find that I am not mindful and in the present moment. My body may be where it is at that moment, but my mind is elsewhere, lost in random thoughts or making plans for something in the future. At these moments I must bring myself back to the present moment and experience everything in my immediate surroundings. In addition to following my breath and feeling my feet and legs solidly connected with the earth, or the water if I am snorkeling, I like to take in all the sights, sounds, colors, smells, sensations, and other various sensory information in my environment. While riding my motorbike in the jungle through the mtns or along the coastline with the incredible bluish-green ocean to the side, I need to remind myself that I won't be staying in such a beautiful place forever. Having my mind and consciousness totally in the moment is one of the best ways to appreciate where I am at.
I had been dreaming of coming to Thailand and Asia for many yrs and it seems like such a waste during my short time here to be lost in random miscellaneous thoughts having no bearing on my life in Thailand or in general. Fortunately I am aware of the minds tendency to drift off in thoughts and into other irrevelant places. I do my best to bring myself back to the moment and attempt to control and guide my mind. The practice of yoga has been really helpful in staying with my body and breath and expanding my awareness. However, even during yoga I must remind myself to come back to what I am doing when I observe my mind trailing off. I look forward to taking part in a 10 day Vipassana meditation retreat in the coming months. This kind of retreat will be highly beneficial in deepening my practice of mindfulness and meditation. I have talked with several people at Agama who have completed 10 day Vipassana retreats and they have found it to be amazingly therapeutic and beneficial for the quality of their lives. There will definetely be much that comes up for me on all levels of my mind. However I believe it will provide a great opportunity to deal with negative emotions and thought patterns as they come up and gain a greater grasp on them.
I had been dreaming of coming to Thailand and Asia for many yrs and it seems like such a waste during my short time here to be lost in random miscellaneous thoughts having no bearing on my life in Thailand or in general. Fortunately I am aware of the minds tendency to drift off in thoughts and into other irrevelant places. I do my best to bring myself back to the moment and attempt to control and guide my mind. The practice of yoga has been really helpful in staying with my body and breath and expanding my awareness. However, even during yoga I must remind myself to come back to what I am doing when I observe my mind trailing off. I look forward to taking part in a 10 day Vipassana meditation retreat in the coming months. This kind of retreat will be highly beneficial in deepening my practice of mindfulness and meditation. I have talked with several people at Agama who have completed 10 day Vipassana retreats and they have found it to be amazingly therapeutic and beneficial for the quality of their lives. There will definetely be much that comes up for me on all levels of my mind. However I believe it will provide a great opportunity to deal with negative emotions and thought patterns as they come up and gain a greater grasp on them.
Sunday, January 20, 2008
Agama Yoga
Have currently been at Agama Yoga for 2 weeks. It has been a very positive and transformative experience for me so far. I am enrolled in a 1st month intensive which includes lecture and yoga practice twice a day for 2 hrs apiece. There is another 3rd lecture following the second yoga practice of the day. None of the sessions are mandatory to attend as one can come and go as they please. However the more attention and focus you put into the program like anything else the more you are going to gain and benefit. The first month program goes in a cycle from day 1 and progresses till day 30. Anyone may step in and begin classes during the month as stated on the website and flyers you see throughout the island. However there is a natural progression from day 1 so arriving in the middle of the month leaves one in the middle of the cycle. I wasn't aware of this upon arriving as the advertisements are a bit misleading. I was lucky enough to arrive slightly before day 1 of the cycle began.
Combined in with those taking the 1st month intensive are others taking part in a 3 month teachers training program. In all there are upwards of 50-60 people present at the yoga classes. There are also others you meet who are taking classes and in there 2nd and 3rd months. These folks only meet 2 or 3 times a wk in the afternoon. I would like to stick around and take the 2nd month although I don't know if it is going to happen for me. I don't think it will keep me busy enough if there are only 2 or 3 sessions per wk, although I would be permitted to continue the yoga classes with the others in the 1st month intensive. In addition to Agama Yoga having a center here Ko Phangan, which happens to be there main yoga center, they also have sites in Chiang Mai - northern Thailand, India - Rishikesh and Dharmasala, as well as Greece and some other countries throughout the world. The school is becoming very popular worldwide and expanding with workshops and classes. Not yet in the U.S. but i'm sure it will be there eventually. In my classes I have met few Americans. There are many Canadiens and mostly Europeans. From Europe I have met lots of people from England and Greece. It's always interesting meeting new people in class and inquiring where they are from. Until this place I had never met people from Switzerland, Austria, Poland, etc.
It's a great healing environment and many people in class are participating in detoxification program and special diets. As the yoga center is situated with a resort called Ananda Resort, they work nicely together as Ananda has a restaurant with a very healthy mean and organizes all the detox programs. I have met many taking part in 10 day detoxs which include drinking special fruit and herbal concoctions at certain times of the day as well as including colonics. One guy in particular from England here with his wife from Poland is doing a 10 day fast and looks completely wiped out from the diet. He is in very good shape as he is a personal trainer and planning to move to Australia to be a trainer with the rugby clubs. His goal with doing the fast is to cleanse and detox his body and gain more energy ultimately. Last time I had seen him he was about 5 days into the fast and looking pretty worn out and tired from the lack of nourishment. It will be interesting seeing how he is feeling after the 10 days are up. The drinks and various herbal concoctions are formulated to cleanse out the stomach and intestines and get rid of toxins, impurities, and other residues present in the body from our typical modern diet and contributing to ill health. The end result is a more energetic and healthy body and mind with less disease-contributing toxins in the body. I don't think that I could do a 10 day fast at this point in my existence. I would be interested in doing a 3 day fast and detox at the maximum. There is a liver cleanse which only last for 1-2 days which interests me and I may take part in.
Another special diet others are participating in is a 10 day brown diet fast. Brown rice is a staple of the healing diets associated with macrobiotics and other dietary healing systems of Asia. I myself have been including brown rice in my diet more regularly but am not ready to take part in a 10 day diet only including brown rice. I think it is alot easier for the women participating as they are smaller and don't need as much food. However the times where I have ate only brown rice for dinner around 6pm and nothing afterword my stomach and innards have felt very harmonious and healthy the rest of the evening. My primary goal diet-wise while at Agama is to eat less and stop drinking sodas and eliminate as much as possible sugars and other sweets from my diet. I am also eliminating drinking beer and alcohol during the wk. and drinking nothing but water and fruit drinks. The fruit drinks - banana, pineapple, strawberry, mango, etc - are delicious but do include sugar, but not too much. The wknd is another story as I permit myself to lapse and drink and eat more liberally.
Combined in with those taking the 1st month intensive are others taking part in a 3 month teachers training program. In all there are upwards of 50-60 people present at the yoga classes. There are also others you meet who are taking classes and in there 2nd and 3rd months. These folks only meet 2 or 3 times a wk in the afternoon. I would like to stick around and take the 2nd month although I don't know if it is going to happen for me. I don't think it will keep me busy enough if there are only 2 or 3 sessions per wk, although I would be permitted to continue the yoga classes with the others in the 1st month intensive. In addition to Agama Yoga having a center here Ko Phangan, which happens to be there main yoga center, they also have sites in Chiang Mai - northern Thailand, India - Rishikesh and Dharmasala, as well as Greece and some other countries throughout the world. The school is becoming very popular worldwide and expanding with workshops and classes. Not yet in the U.S. but i'm sure it will be there eventually. In my classes I have met few Americans. There are many Canadiens and mostly Europeans. From Europe I have met lots of people from England and Greece. It's always interesting meeting new people in class and inquiring where they are from. Until this place I had never met people from Switzerland, Austria, Poland, etc.
It's a great healing environment and many people in class are participating in detoxification program and special diets. As the yoga center is situated with a resort called Ananda Resort, they work nicely together as Ananda has a restaurant with a very healthy mean and organizes all the detox programs. I have met many taking part in 10 day detoxs which include drinking special fruit and herbal concoctions at certain times of the day as well as including colonics. One guy in particular from England here with his wife from Poland is doing a 10 day fast and looks completely wiped out from the diet. He is in very good shape as he is a personal trainer and planning to move to Australia to be a trainer with the rugby clubs. His goal with doing the fast is to cleanse and detox his body and gain more energy ultimately. Last time I had seen him he was about 5 days into the fast and looking pretty worn out and tired from the lack of nourishment. It will be interesting seeing how he is feeling after the 10 days are up. The drinks and various herbal concoctions are formulated to cleanse out the stomach and intestines and get rid of toxins, impurities, and other residues present in the body from our typical modern diet and contributing to ill health. The end result is a more energetic and healthy body and mind with less disease-contributing toxins in the body. I don't think that I could do a 10 day fast at this point in my existence. I would be interested in doing a 3 day fast and detox at the maximum. There is a liver cleanse which only last for 1-2 days which interests me and I may take part in.
Another special diet others are participating in is a 10 day brown diet fast. Brown rice is a staple of the healing diets associated with macrobiotics and other dietary healing systems of Asia. I myself have been including brown rice in my diet more regularly but am not ready to take part in a 10 day diet only including brown rice. I think it is alot easier for the women participating as they are smaller and don't need as much food. However the times where I have ate only brown rice for dinner around 6pm and nothing afterword my stomach and innards have felt very harmonious and healthy the rest of the evening. My primary goal diet-wise while at Agama is to eat less and stop drinking sodas and eliminate as much as possible sugars and other sweets from my diet. I am also eliminating drinking beer and alcohol during the wk. and drinking nothing but water and fruit drinks. The fruit drinks - banana, pineapple, strawberry, mango, etc - are delicious but do include sugar, but not too much. The wknd is another story as I permit myself to lapse and drink and eat more liberally.
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Hike to Bottle Beach
The hike to Bottle Beach was my first hike on the island of Ko Phangan in the forest jungle. Located on the north end of the island, it began near the beach of Haad Khom and ended at Haad Khuad , also known as Bottle Beach. I was able to find the beginning of the trail easy enough from following the island map, as vague as it can be at times. It was around noon and very hot and sticky out. It didn't take long before I was drenched in sweat. However, soon enough I was under the canopy of the trees and it cooled down a little bit for me. The trail was not excessively well tread like those in Colorado, or perhaps other trails on the island. Fortunately there were empty water bottles hanging off trees and bushes indicating the way. There were times however when I would reach a large clearing with rocks and boulders and it would take me some exploring and testing of locations where it appeared the trail was resuming. Some of the spots would dead end into nothing but thickets and I would have to turn around and make my way out to retry another spot. While the forest was dense with trees and vegetation, it was not so incredibly dense to be considered jungle, at least in my opinion. I have since been in the interior and eastern side of the island where I would definitely consider jungle. I was quite close to the coastline so I would imagine that played a difference in it not being quite as dense as the interior of the island.
Towards the beginning of the hike I saw several small monitor lizards scurry off into the bush. However, with the exception of these, I didn't see any quality wildlife, reptiles, or insects the duration of the hike. The hike was demanding in spots as it was on the side of a steep hill. Sometimes it involved climbing nearly vertical up portions of the trail. Compared to some of the climbing and hiking in Colorado it was a day in the park. About 2/3s the way to my destination I lost the trail and wound up along the rocky coastline. This was fun to climb and navigate through. I heard later from a thai boatman that in the mornings he often sees monkeys coming down to the rocks to scavenge for crabs. I didn't have the privilege to spot one however. The coastline had a nice seabreeze with beautiful views of the bluish green ocean. Eventually, nearly 2 hours after I had started I made it around a bend and had arrived at the far edge of the remote and isolated beach, primarily accessible by boat on the ocean. I walked by a bunch of abandoned huts with incredible views of the beach and ocean. With a little bit of work one could have themselves an amazing place to live. Finally I made it too the beach. Not very crowded as there are only 4-5 small resorts and sets of bungalows to stay at. A perfect place for one seeking peace and tranquility away from the masses.
I decided to take a swim in the ocean and cool down a bit. I wasn't aware of it at the time but I heard the bay there has very good coral reefs. I will have to get back again and go snorkeling. I stuck around the beach for a couple of hrs lounging, swimming, and getting something to eat. Since it was a small and isolated beach there wasn't that many people present at the beach, as compared to some of the other beaches on the island. Very laidback and relaxing vibe on the island.
Since it was getting later in the afternoon I decided to take a ocean boat back to where I started instead of hiking my way back through the forest. I met a Canadien couple who were on their way back to the other side of the island and was shared the boat with them. No sense getting caught in the woods in the dark and getting lost like the British couple.
Towards the beginning of the hike I saw several small monitor lizards scurry off into the bush. However, with the exception of these, I didn't see any quality wildlife, reptiles, or insects the duration of the hike. The hike was demanding in spots as it was on the side of a steep hill. Sometimes it involved climbing nearly vertical up portions of the trail. Compared to some of the climbing and hiking in Colorado it was a day in the park. About 2/3s the way to my destination I lost the trail and wound up along the rocky coastline. This was fun to climb and navigate through. I heard later from a thai boatman that in the mornings he often sees monkeys coming down to the rocks to scavenge for crabs. I didn't have the privilege to spot one however. The coastline had a nice seabreeze with beautiful views of the bluish green ocean. Eventually, nearly 2 hours after I had started I made it around a bend and had arrived at the far edge of the remote and isolated beach, primarily accessible by boat on the ocean. I walked by a bunch of abandoned huts with incredible views of the beach and ocean. With a little bit of work one could have themselves an amazing place to live. Finally I made it too the beach. Not very crowded as there are only 4-5 small resorts and sets of bungalows to stay at. A perfect place for one seeking peace and tranquility away from the masses.
I decided to take a swim in the ocean and cool down a bit. I wasn't aware of it at the time but I heard the bay there has very good coral reefs. I will have to get back again and go snorkeling. I stuck around the beach for a couple of hrs lounging, swimming, and getting something to eat. Since it was a small and isolated beach there wasn't that many people present at the beach, as compared to some of the other beaches on the island. Very laidback and relaxing vibe on the island.
Since it was getting later in the afternoon I decided to take a ocean boat back to where I started instead of hiking my way back through the forest. I met a Canadien couple who were on their way back to the other side of the island and was shared the boat with them. No sense getting caught in the woods in the dark and getting lost like the British couple.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
possible cobra sighting
I took a drive Sunday afternoon southeast on the island to a road which heads north in the mountains and past the location for the well-publicized Half-Moon party. This particular party is one of the three main Moon parties, along with the Full Moon and Black Moon parties, that occur on the southeast section of the island, pretty far from where I am staying at the moment. The half-moon party sounds cool and different cause it is in the jungle instead of the beach where the other two are. There are flyers and advertisement for these parties everywhere u go on the island.
I found the location so now I know where to go when I make plans to attend the gathering. I jumped back on my bike and headed north and took a turn on another path where I was almost attacked by some stupid dog which started chasing me very aggressively on the left side of my bike. Fortunately I practice yoga and have good flexibility and was able to lift my leg off the pedal high enough that the dog couldn't bite the leg. I'm glad it was that side cause my right leg controls the main brake along with the hand brake. A second later the dog lost interest or I left his territory but he stopped chasing me. Would be a wonderful thing to be bitten by a rabid dog.
I got back on the main road north and headed up for a while till I found another turn advertising waterfalls, which I took. I went for a distance and spoke with some guys who said the waterfall was pretty lame at the moment and not worth checking out. During the main rainy season I'm sure it would be amazing. I kept going for a little bit and found another turn on the left side and decided to check it out. I drove up it for a distance till I arrived at an abandoned shack and walked around a bit examining things. Didn't look as though anyone had been there for a while and I decided it was about time to turn around and head on back. I did notice alot of trees with carvings spiraling down their side to a container to collect a thick, foamy and sappy looking discharge . I was told this is used to create rubber.
As I was heading back on the dirt lane I was on an uphill portion and noticed what appeared to be a hose or cable or something about 15 ft in the distance. As my vision improved I noticed the object started moving and it was a huge snake which was spinning around very quickly and heading back into the bush. I tried to get off my bike to check it out but was too slow. I was also wearing flip flops which didn't help getting my footing.
The snake, brown and about 8-10 ft long moved in a very quick and powerful fashion and had the appearance of a cobra, possibly even a king cobra. The cobras I had seen at the snake farm back in Bangkok had been less then 5 ft long and this one was much longer and larger. It all happened so quick that I wasn't able to get my camera out and take a picture or even check the reptile out. It also moved away so quick that I didn't get to see if it hooded up or not.
It was a huge adrenaline rush and I was pretty pumped up about it for a while. I can't wait to go back to the area and see if I see it again or another one. I will probably wind up taking a guided tour by one of the local Thais who knows the area. There is also monkeys deeper into the jungle which would be exciting to see.
In talking with a reiki master the other day I had mentioned to her my intrigue with finding and seeing a cobra in the wild. I was wondering what it may symbolize and she told me it symbolized transformation. That is one of the common themes for my trip to the Asia to seek transformation of myself. Perhaps something deep in my psyche resonates with the symbolism of the cobra.
I found the location so now I know where to go when I make plans to attend the gathering. I jumped back on my bike and headed north and took a turn on another path where I was almost attacked by some stupid dog which started chasing me very aggressively on the left side of my bike. Fortunately I practice yoga and have good flexibility and was able to lift my leg off the pedal high enough that the dog couldn't bite the leg. I'm glad it was that side cause my right leg controls the main brake along with the hand brake. A second later the dog lost interest or I left his territory but he stopped chasing me. Would be a wonderful thing to be bitten by a rabid dog.
I got back on the main road north and headed up for a while till I found another turn advertising waterfalls, which I took. I went for a distance and spoke with some guys who said the waterfall was pretty lame at the moment and not worth checking out. During the main rainy season I'm sure it would be amazing. I kept going for a little bit and found another turn on the left side and decided to check it out. I drove up it for a distance till I arrived at an abandoned shack and walked around a bit examining things. Didn't look as though anyone had been there for a while and I decided it was about time to turn around and head on back. I did notice alot of trees with carvings spiraling down their side to a container to collect a thick, foamy and sappy looking discharge . I was told this is used to create rubber.
As I was heading back on the dirt lane I was on an uphill portion and noticed what appeared to be a hose or cable or something about 15 ft in the distance. As my vision improved I noticed the object started moving and it was a huge snake which was spinning around very quickly and heading back into the bush. I tried to get off my bike to check it out but was too slow. I was also wearing flip flops which didn't help getting my footing.
The snake, brown and about 8-10 ft long moved in a very quick and powerful fashion and had the appearance of a cobra, possibly even a king cobra. The cobras I had seen at the snake farm back in Bangkok had been less then 5 ft long and this one was much longer and larger. It all happened so quick that I wasn't able to get my camera out and take a picture or even check the reptile out. It also moved away so quick that I didn't get to see if it hooded up or not.
It was a huge adrenaline rush and I was pretty pumped up about it for a while. I can't wait to go back to the area and see if I see it again or another one. I will probably wind up taking a guided tour by one of the local Thais who knows the area. There is also monkeys deeper into the jungle which would be exciting to see.
In talking with a reiki master the other day I had mentioned to her my intrigue with finding and seeing a cobra in the wild. I was wondering what it may symbolize and she told me it symbolized transformation. That is one of the common themes for my trip to the Asia to seek transformation of myself. Perhaps something deep in my psyche resonates with the symbolism of the cobra.
Riding Motorbike up the coast to Haad Khom
Since I got a motorbike I am able cruise up and down the roads of the island and check out the different beaches and scenic spots. After having read one of the guide books to the island and the section under hikes I was intrigued by one of the hikes suggested in the northern end of the island leading to one of the most remote, isolated, and beautiful beaches on the island, Bottle Beach or Haad Khuat. Haad means beach in Thai language. Looking at the map the hike starts near another remote beach, Haad Khom which I could assess by my motorbike.
The first day I got my motorbike I decided to ride north up the coast to check out different beaches, some waterfalls, and to find out where the trailhead for Bottle Beach starts. The views were spectacular and it was so nice to be out of the hectic pace, noise, and pollution of Bangkok. The road, which alternated between being paved and just dirt in different sections, was far enough away from the coastline in most spots that one couldn't see the beach. There were signs and turns available throughout the route allowing access to different beaches and notable resorts present at them. The first beach I arrived at was at the town of Baan Chaloklum. It is a huge bay with beautiful bluish/green waters and great coral reefs. I was looking to make the proper turn for the beach of Haad Khom but turned incorrectly down the wrong road going south and drove past signs for Paradise Waterfall. I decided this was worth checking out and drove up a road for about 5 mins arriving at a small restaurant and lounge where the path starts. I did a 20-25 min hike up a path through the forest wearing flip flops with some Germans and arrived at the waterfall which was very nice but not at its finest and fullest flow. During the rainy season several months ago I'm sure it would be amazing but it was still worth checking out. I think the name, Paradise Waterfall, made it sound more epic than it was. There are some other waterfalls on the island which I look forward to visiting that are supposed to be amazing, one in particular on the eastern side of the island which has carvings by past kings of Thailand. It is a series of 3 waterfalls and is considered to be sacred by the Thais.
After leaving the waterfall I drove past a Buddhist temple, or Wat, and decided to check it out. As I made my way into the main temple area where the primary Buddha figure resides, I took some pics and noticed to the side of the Buddha was what appeared to be a wax figure of an old monk sitting in a chair. I walked up closer to examine the figure and was startled to discover that it was an actual Buddhist monk sitting deep in meditation. I wasn't sure for several moments whether or not it was an actual real person or a wax figure as the monk was completely motionless and didn't appear to be lifelike. Something about the color of his skin and the absolute still and calmness made him appear unreal.
As I made my way back to the beach I drove up some beat up and rutted dirt roads and finally made it too Haad Khom, the area in which the hike to Bottle Beach would begin. I wasn't planning on doing the hike at the moment, which was late afternoon, but just wanted to get an idea of where to go the following day. Haad Khom is a pretty isolated and beautiful beach itself with only a small number of guest houses but with a very laidback and peaceful feel about itself. As I was walking on the beach I noticed not too far in the distance a familiar looking guy with snorkel gear and a large tattoo on his right shoulder. It was Eelco, the Dutch guy who I had met on the way to the island and shared a room with the first night. It had been about 2 days since we had parted ways. It was pretty amazing just happening to bump into him in one of the more smaller and isolated beaches on the island. We spoke for a little bit and I told him my plans of making a hike the following day to Bottle Beach. He told me he had heard a story that day or the previous of a British couple who had gotten lost on the path and had spent the night out in the forest/jungle by themselves with no food or flashlight. That would have to be a pretty scary situation being out there without any of the essential supplies and in complete darkness and noise with all the animals, reptiles, and insects. We promised to keep in touch and go snorkeling together sometime.
The first day I got my motorbike I decided to ride north up the coast to check out different beaches, some waterfalls, and to find out where the trailhead for Bottle Beach starts. The views were spectacular and it was so nice to be out of the hectic pace, noise, and pollution of Bangkok. The road, which alternated between being paved and just dirt in different sections, was far enough away from the coastline in most spots that one couldn't see the beach. There were signs and turns available throughout the route allowing access to different beaches and notable resorts present at them. The first beach I arrived at was at the town of Baan Chaloklum. It is a huge bay with beautiful bluish/green waters and great coral reefs. I was looking to make the proper turn for the beach of Haad Khom but turned incorrectly down the wrong road going south and drove past signs for Paradise Waterfall. I decided this was worth checking out and drove up a road for about 5 mins arriving at a small restaurant and lounge where the path starts. I did a 20-25 min hike up a path through the forest wearing flip flops with some Germans and arrived at the waterfall which was very nice but not at its finest and fullest flow. During the rainy season several months ago I'm sure it would be amazing but it was still worth checking out. I think the name, Paradise Waterfall, made it sound more epic than it was. There are some other waterfalls on the island which I look forward to visiting that are supposed to be amazing, one in particular on the eastern side of the island which has carvings by past kings of Thailand. It is a series of 3 waterfalls and is considered to be sacred by the Thais.
After leaving the waterfall I drove past a Buddhist temple, or Wat, and decided to check it out. As I made my way into the main temple area where the primary Buddha figure resides, I took some pics and noticed to the side of the Buddha was what appeared to be a wax figure of an old monk sitting in a chair. I walked up closer to examine the figure and was startled to discover that it was an actual Buddhist monk sitting deep in meditation. I wasn't sure for several moments whether or not it was an actual real person or a wax figure as the monk was completely motionless and didn't appear to be lifelike. Something about the color of his skin and the absolute still and calmness made him appear unreal.
As I made my way back to the beach I drove up some beat up and rutted dirt roads and finally made it too Haad Khom, the area in which the hike to Bottle Beach would begin. I wasn't planning on doing the hike at the moment, which was late afternoon, but just wanted to get an idea of where to go the following day. Haad Khom is a pretty isolated and beautiful beach itself with only a small number of guest houses but with a very laidback and peaceful feel about itself. As I was walking on the beach I noticed not too far in the distance a familiar looking guy with snorkel gear and a large tattoo on his right shoulder. It was Eelco, the Dutch guy who I had met on the way to the island and shared a room with the first night. It had been about 2 days since we had parted ways. It was pretty amazing just happening to bump into him in one of the more smaller and isolated beaches on the island. We spoke for a little bit and I told him my plans of making a hike the following day to Bottle Beach. He told me he had heard a story that day or the previous of a British couple who had gotten lost on the path and had spent the night out in the forest/jungle by themselves with no food or flashlight. That would have to be a pretty scary situation being out there without any of the essential supplies and in complete darkness and noise with all the animals, reptiles, and insects. We promised to keep in touch and go snorkeling together sometime.
Friday, January 11, 2008
Staying at Jinga Bay
Found a real nice place to stay on the west side of the of the island on Haad Chao Phao beach called Jinda Resort. It is about a 10 min motorbike ride away from Agama Yoga where I am doing yoga retreat type training. Consists of twice per day yoga training with so far lots of lecture along with a evening lecture following the second class.
After spending the first night on the island in the southwest corner town Thongsala I took a pickup truck taxi up the coast 5 kilometers I believe to the Agama yoga center and was dropped off. From there I was able to rent a ragged and beat up mountain bike across the street from the center at a store. With this I could pedal the coast until I found a decent and respectable place to stay. After riding up the road for about 30 mins on an undersized bike with messed up gears and underinflated tires along with both my bags handing off my shoulders, I started checking out some places along the coast and found a great deal for a room at Jinda Bay. For 200 baht or $6 a night I got myself a room with a porch about 50 feet from the beach. It has a double sized uncomfortable bed and its own bathroom and shower with cold water instead of a community one. I could have splurged an extra $3 more and gotten a villa practically right on the beach. However I can see the ocean from my porch area and and can walk 20 seconds to the beach. I have gotten used to taking cold showers while in Bangkok so it's a small price to paying for living at such an exotic and beautiful location so close to the beach and warm ocean. There are coral reefs great for snorkeling and scuba diving a hundred yards or more into the ocean. The water is extremely warm and shallow for a distance until it starts declining and you get into the coral reefs.
So far I have gone snorkeling once and it was an amazing experience. As you swim further out into the extremely clear deeper waters you can see schools of smaller fish and other solitary larger fish and other interesting marine life. I saw a sea snake or eel back down into a hole and peak its head out a few inches. A friend of mine at the resort told me of seeing some porcupine fish and a whale shark. Unfortunately at the moment I got to be a bit careful in heading out into the waters as I have a bunch of cuts on my feet and legs from swimming and playing beach soccer the other day. I'm not sure if I cut if on coral or just rock and other sharp stuff but going into the shallow, warm water can inhibit the healing process. Apparently lots of bacteria thrive in these warm , shallow waters and can cause infection. I have been religiously putting on disinfectant and antiseptic cream throughout the day to heal up and prevent infection.
I also got a motorbike from a store next to where I am staying. Practically everyone on the island is riding around on some form of motorbike or moped. It only costs $5 a day and I was able to get a cheaper deal by paying upfront for several weeks. The motorbike gives me pretty good access to most of the roads on the island. So far I have explored the west, north, and south parts of the island but haven't really gotten into the interior and the east side of the island. The central part of the island is very mountainous and holds the largest mountain on the island. Will be a great hike one of these days when I'm free. The east side of the island is less developed with more isolated beaches and less roads. I'm not sure exactly what kind of shape they are in. It's possible I may need a dirt bike to access some of these lesser developed roads and areas. Some guys who were staying at my resort had rented out dirtbikes for a bit more money but were able to access some roads very rutted out and more rugged, roads not exactly accessible for my motorbike.
After spending the first night on the island in the southwest corner town Thongsala I took a pickup truck taxi up the coast 5 kilometers I believe to the Agama yoga center and was dropped off. From there I was able to rent a ragged and beat up mountain bike across the street from the center at a store. With this I could pedal the coast until I found a decent and respectable place to stay. After riding up the road for about 30 mins on an undersized bike with messed up gears and underinflated tires along with both my bags handing off my shoulders, I started checking out some places along the coast and found a great deal for a room at Jinda Bay. For 200 baht or $6 a night I got myself a room with a porch about 50 feet from the beach. It has a double sized uncomfortable bed and its own bathroom and shower with cold water instead of a community one. I could have splurged an extra $3 more and gotten a villa practically right on the beach. However I can see the ocean from my porch area and and can walk 20 seconds to the beach. I have gotten used to taking cold showers while in Bangkok so it's a small price to paying for living at such an exotic and beautiful location so close to the beach and warm ocean. There are coral reefs great for snorkeling and scuba diving a hundred yards or more into the ocean. The water is extremely warm and shallow for a distance until it starts declining and you get into the coral reefs.
So far I have gone snorkeling once and it was an amazing experience. As you swim further out into the extremely clear deeper waters you can see schools of smaller fish and other solitary larger fish and other interesting marine life. I saw a sea snake or eel back down into a hole and peak its head out a few inches. A friend of mine at the resort told me of seeing some porcupine fish and a whale shark. Unfortunately at the moment I got to be a bit careful in heading out into the waters as I have a bunch of cuts on my feet and legs from swimming and playing beach soccer the other day. I'm not sure if I cut if on coral or just rock and other sharp stuff but going into the shallow, warm water can inhibit the healing process. Apparently lots of bacteria thrive in these warm , shallow waters and can cause infection. I have been religiously putting on disinfectant and antiseptic cream throughout the day to heal up and prevent infection.
I also got a motorbike from a store next to where I am staying. Practically everyone on the island is riding around on some form of motorbike or moped. It only costs $5 a day and I was able to get a cheaper deal by paying upfront for several weeks. The motorbike gives me pretty good access to most of the roads on the island. So far I have explored the west, north, and south parts of the island but haven't really gotten into the interior and the east side of the island. The central part of the island is very mountainous and holds the largest mountain on the island. Will be a great hike one of these days when I'm free. The east side of the island is less developed with more isolated beaches and less roads. I'm not sure exactly what kind of shape they are in. It's possible I may need a dirt bike to access some of these lesser developed roads and areas. Some guys who were staying at my resort had rented out dirtbikes for a bit more money but were able to access some roads very rutted out and more rugged, roads not exactly accessible for my motorbike.
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Muay Thai Kickboxing
While grabbing a bite to eat after arriving in Ko Phangan, I noticed some flyers on the wall promoting some muay thai kickboxing matches that evening. Sounded like a really fun thing to go watch and a bit cheaper than the matches back in Bangkok. Back in Bangkok it is only really possible for foreigners to obtain pricey VIP and ringside tickets to matches at one of the venues. It would be awesome to watch some high quality fights from the ringside but I also got to watch my budget and conserve my money for other stuff.
The arena location was just on the edge of town so it was easily within walking distance for me and Eelco to walk to. The ring was outdoors, not too far from the beach, and was pumping loud techno music from some huge speakers. We got there at around 9:15pm as the matches were advertised to start around 9:30. It was a small kind of backyard venue with bleachers on either side of the ring along with seats and standing room space on all sides. There were mostly foreigners at the beginning however the place filled up with alot of Thais as the fights began and the evening progressed. Advertised on the promotion flyers were three fights with foreigners going against Thai fighters.
The first several fights were rather lastluster were both fighters appearing to be around the age of 12 or so. Most interesting during the first fight was listening to one of the mothers hollering and urging her son on. I couldn't tell exactly which fighter she was her son as she was speaking in thai. She was standing quite close to me and in speaking with her later she told me it was her son who won of course. Also interesting was watching all the gambling going on amongst the Thais. Gambling is a large part of the experience for Thais attending their kickboxing matches. The music played during the fights was cool to listen to as well. I'm not sure how to describe it but I would reckon it was some kind of thai music related to thai kickboxing culture. It had a very exotic and eastern kind of sound. However, once a fight was over and it was between fights it was right back to the techno and rave music.
The most interesting and exciting fight of the evening turned out to be two 7 yr olds going at it against each other. It was about 5 or 6 fights into the evening and it was hard to believe that such young and innocent looking kids were going to be kicking each others asses. It was nearing midnight when these kids got to the ring. While watching one of the kids in his corner oiled up and waiting for the other fighter to make it too the ring, he just appeared very calm and almost disinterested. Soon thereafter the other fighter made his way to the ring and they both started doing their pre-fight ceremonial dance in the middle of the ring. During the dance the fighters face each direction in the ring typically with one knee down and do some strange ritual movements and what I would imagine are prayers. They were also wearing ceremonial head and arm pieces. I'm not sure what the true purpose behind the head and arm pieces and the ceremonial dance but I believe they are something spiritual, probably Buddhist, in nature.
The previous fighters had also performed the ritual dancing but at a substantially lesser level. These kids were really impressive to watch and looked as though they had done it 100's of times before. The crowd was really cheering and alive while watching these youngsters prepare themselves for battle.
The fight itself turned out to be quite exciting to watch as these kids were obviously very trained and skilled. Their punches and kicks were solid and crisp and they could take getting hit with some solid shots. One of the kids executed a perfect round house kick although he missed his opponent. None of these kids or any of the other guys in the other fights were wearing headgear either. I would reckon the gloves everyone were wearing were around 12 or 16 ounces, pretty standard sizes. I don't remember who won the fight but it was definitely the most exciting and compelling of the evening up to that point.
Soon after this fight one of the first foreigers finally made his way to the ring, probably some time after 1am. They had advertised 3 foreigners to be fighting but it was hard to believe that it would go on so late. The first foreigner was from England, about 22-25 yrs old, and I overheard some of his friends and supporters talking him up on the sidelines and saying he was very good. I was expecting an exciting match with lots of engagement from the crowd as he seemed to have many supporters and of course the Thais would be rooting on their guy. Before the fight, both fighters did their ritual dance and the English guy was very good and looked as though he had practiced his routine to impress and fulfill the tradition.
The fight was going well for the first round when all of a suddent the power went out in the entire arena. Lots of yelling and hollering but everything kept in order considering all the drinking everyone was doing. I waiting for about 5-10 mins for the power to come back on and when it didn't it was time to split. It was getting late and I didn't feel like waiting forever for the power to come back on. It would have been tough for the fighters as well as they were all warmed up and in the middle of the fight, then made to sit and wait in their corners. Since I left I'm not sure if the power ever came back on or not and if the fight restarted.
It was awesome action and since i'm on the island for at least a month or more i'm sure I will make it back again.
The arena location was just on the edge of town so it was easily within walking distance for me and Eelco to walk to. The ring was outdoors, not too far from the beach, and was pumping loud techno music from some huge speakers. We got there at around 9:15pm as the matches were advertised to start around 9:30. It was a small kind of backyard venue with bleachers on either side of the ring along with seats and standing room space on all sides. There were mostly foreigners at the beginning however the place filled up with alot of Thais as the fights began and the evening progressed. Advertised on the promotion flyers were three fights with foreigners going against Thai fighters.
The first several fights were rather lastluster were both fighters appearing to be around the age of 12 or so. Most interesting during the first fight was listening to one of the mothers hollering and urging her son on. I couldn't tell exactly which fighter she was her son as she was speaking in thai. She was standing quite close to me and in speaking with her later she told me it was her son who won of course. Also interesting was watching all the gambling going on amongst the Thais. Gambling is a large part of the experience for Thais attending their kickboxing matches. The music played during the fights was cool to listen to as well. I'm not sure how to describe it but I would reckon it was some kind of thai music related to thai kickboxing culture. It had a very exotic and eastern kind of sound. However, once a fight was over and it was between fights it was right back to the techno and rave music.
The most interesting and exciting fight of the evening turned out to be two 7 yr olds going at it against each other. It was about 5 or 6 fights into the evening and it was hard to believe that such young and innocent looking kids were going to be kicking each others asses. It was nearing midnight when these kids got to the ring. While watching one of the kids in his corner oiled up and waiting for the other fighter to make it too the ring, he just appeared very calm and almost disinterested. Soon thereafter the other fighter made his way to the ring and they both started doing their pre-fight ceremonial dance in the middle of the ring. During the dance the fighters face each direction in the ring typically with one knee down and do some strange ritual movements and what I would imagine are prayers. They were also wearing ceremonial head and arm pieces. I'm not sure what the true purpose behind the head and arm pieces and the ceremonial dance but I believe they are something spiritual, probably Buddhist, in nature.
The previous fighters had also performed the ritual dancing but at a substantially lesser level. These kids were really impressive to watch and looked as though they had done it 100's of times before. The crowd was really cheering and alive while watching these youngsters prepare themselves for battle.
The fight itself turned out to be quite exciting to watch as these kids were obviously very trained and skilled. Their punches and kicks were solid and crisp and they could take getting hit with some solid shots. One of the kids executed a perfect round house kick although he missed his opponent. None of these kids or any of the other guys in the other fights were wearing headgear either. I would reckon the gloves everyone were wearing were around 12 or 16 ounces, pretty standard sizes. I don't remember who won the fight but it was definitely the most exciting and compelling of the evening up to that point.
Soon after this fight one of the first foreigers finally made his way to the ring, probably some time after 1am. They had advertised 3 foreigners to be fighting but it was hard to believe that it would go on so late. The first foreigner was from England, about 22-25 yrs old, and I overheard some of his friends and supporters talking him up on the sidelines and saying he was very good. I was expecting an exciting match with lots of engagement from the crowd as he seemed to have many supporters and of course the Thais would be rooting on their guy. Before the fight, both fighters did their ritual dance and the English guy was very good and looked as though he had practiced his routine to impress and fulfill the tradition.
The fight was going well for the first round when all of a suddent the power went out in the entire arena. Lots of yelling and hollering but everything kept in order considering all the drinking everyone was doing. I waiting for about 5-10 mins for the power to come back on and when it didn't it was time to split. It was getting late and I didn't feel like waiting forever for the power to come back on. It would have been tough for the fighters as well as they were all warmed up and in the middle of the fight, then made to sit and wait in their corners. Since I left I'm not sure if the power ever came back on or not and if the fight restarted.
It was awesome action and since i'm on the island for at least a month or more i'm sure I will make it back again.
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Trip down to Ko Phangan
After 17 days in Bangkok, it was time to head out of the city down south to the islands, specifically Ko Phangan. Located in the Gulf of Thailand, it is here that I plan on doing a 1-month yoga intensive at Agama Yoga as well as explore the island and enjoy the ocean. My bus left Bangkok at 9pm ish to make the overnight trek down south. Through Sarin I was able to obtain a cheaper than normal ticket as she gave me a wholesale price without any markup profit for herself. This cost me 500 baht, or about $15. Typically prices are 550 baht on up to over 1000 baht for taking a train.
I was lucky enough to grab a seat with no one sitting next to me. As a result I could stretch out more freely and ride in more comfort. It was still tough to sleep and reading was out of the question after about an hr. as they turned off the lights in the bus. Also playing on the television screen in the front and middle of the bus was some crazy horror/vampire flick with lots of screaming and bloody dismemberment. Was a weird choice of movies to play.
After several stoppages along the way for food and to stretch out, we made it to the wharf in the town of Chumphon along the gulf of Thailand. Here I grabbed a speedboat to make the last legs of the trip to Ko Phangan. This portion turned out to be more exciting than I was expecting. The ocean and waves were extremely active and choppy during the 2 hr voyage to the first stop, the island of Ko Tao. The boat was undulating up and down and it felt like being on a roller coaster. Off to the sides you could see small, isolated and probably deserted islands, but for the mostly part if was overlast and grey at the moment, about 7 am.
Pretty soon it became apparent why they had plastic bags all over the tables between the benches. After about 15-20 minutes of riding up and down in high, choppy waves many people were getting nauseous and grabbing for bags to vomit into. I myself was beginning to feel a bit of lightheadedness and sickness in the stomach. The motion of going up and down constantly on the ocean did a number on my stomach. I decided to walk outside the cabin for a moment as someone explained that it could alleviate some of the nausea and sea sickness. However the moment I stepped outside I inhaled a strong breatheful of cigarette smoke from the thai boatmen outside smoking. This did nothing but worsen my condition and I had to stagger back inside as it was tough keeping balance with all the motion of the boat. A moment later I joined the folks inside in grabbing myself a plastic bag to unload myself. I hadn't ate too much but did have a stomach full of digesting orange juice from drinking a huge container, about 30 ounces or so, of it on the busride down. I got a good deal from a vendor on the street in front of the bus back in Bangkok just before leaving and had decided to drink healthy on the way down. Consequently my vomit had a lovely orange hue to it. After puking I felt much better and laid myself down on the bench and went to sleep.
Shortly after we arrived at Ko Tao, an island slightly north of Ko Phangan and regarded as one if not the best scuba diving islands in the region with all the coral reefs off the coastline. The views from the boat of Ko Tao were spectacular, with bungalows doting the coastline on up into the hills. Palm and coconut trees were everywhere to be seen. However it was still overcast and cloudy so visibility was not superb to see too far into the distance of the high hills/mountains of the island. After docking for several minutes to pick up more passengers and let off others, we were on the way to Ko Phangan. The ride on the sea at this time was much smoother and peaceful, thank goodness as the boat was jam- packed and would have been a horrible time for everyone to be getting sick and throwing up.
Approximately an hr later we arrived at Thongsala, at the southwest tip of the island and the main docking and loading station of the island. Visibility was still back as the weather was very overcast and cloudy and slightly drizzling. At least it was warm out. A far cry from previous days in Bangkok where it seemed everyday was full of sweltering sunshine and it never rained once. I had met another solo traveler on the boat, a guy named Eelco, 35, from Holland. He had recently quit his job as a police officer and was taking 4-5 months for himself in Thailand. We decided to save some money and share a room together. We were able to find a decent guesthouse in the town with 2 double beds for 300 baht apiece. We decided it would be fun to check out a thai kickboxing contest later that evening.
I was lucky enough to grab a seat with no one sitting next to me. As a result I could stretch out more freely and ride in more comfort. It was still tough to sleep and reading was out of the question after about an hr. as they turned off the lights in the bus. Also playing on the television screen in the front and middle of the bus was some crazy horror/vampire flick with lots of screaming and bloody dismemberment. Was a weird choice of movies to play.
After several stoppages along the way for food and to stretch out, we made it to the wharf in the town of Chumphon along the gulf of Thailand. Here I grabbed a speedboat to make the last legs of the trip to Ko Phangan. This portion turned out to be more exciting than I was expecting. The ocean and waves were extremely active and choppy during the 2 hr voyage to the first stop, the island of Ko Tao. The boat was undulating up and down and it felt like being on a roller coaster. Off to the sides you could see small, isolated and probably deserted islands, but for the mostly part if was overlast and grey at the moment, about 7 am.
Pretty soon it became apparent why they had plastic bags all over the tables between the benches. After about 15-20 minutes of riding up and down in high, choppy waves many people were getting nauseous and grabbing for bags to vomit into. I myself was beginning to feel a bit of lightheadedness and sickness in the stomach. The motion of going up and down constantly on the ocean did a number on my stomach. I decided to walk outside the cabin for a moment as someone explained that it could alleviate some of the nausea and sea sickness. However the moment I stepped outside I inhaled a strong breatheful of cigarette smoke from the thai boatmen outside smoking. This did nothing but worsen my condition and I had to stagger back inside as it was tough keeping balance with all the motion of the boat. A moment later I joined the folks inside in grabbing myself a plastic bag to unload myself. I hadn't ate too much but did have a stomach full of digesting orange juice from drinking a huge container, about 30 ounces or so, of it on the busride down. I got a good deal from a vendor on the street in front of the bus back in Bangkok just before leaving and had decided to drink healthy on the way down. Consequently my vomit had a lovely orange hue to it. After puking I felt much better and laid myself down on the bench and went to sleep.
Shortly after we arrived at Ko Tao, an island slightly north of Ko Phangan and regarded as one if not the best scuba diving islands in the region with all the coral reefs off the coastline. The views from the boat of Ko Tao were spectacular, with bungalows doting the coastline on up into the hills. Palm and coconut trees were everywhere to be seen. However it was still overcast and cloudy so visibility was not superb to see too far into the distance of the high hills/mountains of the island. After docking for several minutes to pick up more passengers and let off others, we were on the way to Ko Phangan. The ride on the sea at this time was much smoother and peaceful, thank goodness as the boat was jam- packed and would have been a horrible time for everyone to be getting sick and throwing up.
Approximately an hr later we arrived at Thongsala, at the southwest tip of the island and the main docking and loading station of the island. Visibility was still back as the weather was very overcast and cloudy and slightly drizzling. At least it was warm out. A far cry from previous days in Bangkok where it seemed everyday was full of sweltering sunshine and it never rained once. I had met another solo traveler on the boat, a guy named Eelco, 35, from Holland. He had recently quit his job as a police officer and was taking 4-5 months for himself in Thailand. We decided to save some money and share a room together. We were able to find a decent guesthouse in the town with 2 double beds for 300 baht apiece. We decided it would be fun to check out a thai kickboxing contest later that evening.
Monday, January 7, 2008
New Years Eve
Spent New Years Eve having a pleasant and authentic thai dinner with Sarin alongside the Chao Phraya River with great views of Wat Arun, one of the most magnificent Wats and structures in the city. I almost destroyed my mouth in eating some of the hot pepper that are typically put into the thai dishes. Usually I pick the peppers and push them off to the side as they are much too hot for me to eat. I like mashing up bits of them and putting them into the food i'm eating as a way of trying them on a lesser level. As long as I got some rice avail to subdue the heat. Water is not good is lessening the heat sensation and can actually make it worse.
Most of the restaurants and vendors in the Khao San Rd. area are aware that the tourists are not as able to handle the hot peppers and spices as the Thai folk. As a result they are mindful in how much peppers they put in the meals and often on each table there is a glass bowl filled with the peppers and seeds sitting in water. From this anyone can scoop out a spoonful to their liking and preference.
However, we ate our meal around 11 pm and then went on a walk down to one of the piers where some other people were hanging out. There was not a countdown where we were standing but we could see firewalks from all directions of the city. One of the thai men in the restaurant starting shooting off a gun into the air. Even though it is not the official new year for most Thais as they are Buddhist and the Buddhist New Year is celebrated in early April I believe, Thais love celebrating and having a good time. It is a national holiday for Thais and many go on vacation for several days to get away.
After observing the fireworks and hanging on the pier, Sarin and I took a walk into the city and she took me to one of the nights markets. Here I was able to observe all the trucks unloading fresh produce and fruits in bulk. Lots of fruits and vegetables that I had never seen before in my life. They are then broken down into smaller units for stores and restaurants to use and sell. We also walked through a flower market where the thais were hard at work making bouquets and other creations with the flowers.
On the way back there were masses of thai folk outside the Grand Palace where the Temple of the Emerald Buddha resides praying and asking the Buddha for a blessed 2008. Here I had visited my first wk and was amazed by how beautiful yet small the Emerald Buddha is. Along with the huge reclining buddha at the Wat Po adjacent to the Grand Palace, these were the 2 most amazing Buddha figures I have encountered so far. I will be back in the area in about 1-2 months after my stay in the islands to do thai massage training at the famous Wat Po. I had intended on doing this during my first few weeks in Bangkok but wound up getting sick for several days my 2nd wk in town and couldn't take part. Then I discovered that most of the teachers would be unavailable for instruction as it was the holiday and vacation season and most were away for the moment.
After about 17 days in Bangkok this was my last night before I would leave heading to the island of Ko Phangan in the south. The time went by quick and it was an amazing experience. In talking with many travelers they were surprised that I lasted that long in Bangkok. Most travelers use Bangkok as more or less a travel stop for a wk or less on the way to other destinations, such as the islands or Chiang Mai in the north. Bangkok is very noisy, polluted, and dirty but I enjoyed my time visiting all the temples, walking through the bowels and alleyways of Chinatown and the surrounding markets, hanging on Khao San Rd, and doing thai kickboxing.
Most of the restaurants and vendors in the Khao San Rd. area are aware that the tourists are not as able to handle the hot peppers and spices as the Thai folk. As a result they are mindful in how much peppers they put in the meals and often on each table there is a glass bowl filled with the peppers and seeds sitting in water. From this anyone can scoop out a spoonful to their liking and preference.
However, we ate our meal around 11 pm and then went on a walk down to one of the piers where some other people were hanging out. There was not a countdown where we were standing but we could see firewalks from all directions of the city. One of the thai men in the restaurant starting shooting off a gun into the air. Even though it is not the official new year for most Thais as they are Buddhist and the Buddhist New Year is celebrated in early April I believe, Thais love celebrating and having a good time. It is a national holiday for Thais and many go on vacation for several days to get away.
After observing the fireworks and hanging on the pier, Sarin and I took a walk into the city and she took me to one of the nights markets. Here I was able to observe all the trucks unloading fresh produce and fruits in bulk. Lots of fruits and vegetables that I had never seen before in my life. They are then broken down into smaller units for stores and restaurants to use and sell. We also walked through a flower market where the thais were hard at work making bouquets and other creations with the flowers.
On the way back there were masses of thai folk outside the Grand Palace where the Temple of the Emerald Buddha resides praying and asking the Buddha for a blessed 2008. Here I had visited my first wk and was amazed by how beautiful yet small the Emerald Buddha is. Along with the huge reclining buddha at the Wat Po adjacent to the Grand Palace, these were the 2 most amazing Buddha figures I have encountered so far. I will be back in the area in about 1-2 months after my stay in the islands to do thai massage training at the famous Wat Po. I had intended on doing this during my first few weeks in Bangkok but wound up getting sick for several days my 2nd wk in town and couldn't take part. Then I discovered that most of the teachers would be unavailable for instruction as it was the holiday and vacation season and most were away for the moment.
After about 17 days in Bangkok this was my last night before I would leave heading to the island of Ko Phangan in the south. The time went by quick and it was an amazing experience. In talking with many travelers they were surprised that I lasted that long in Bangkok. Most travelers use Bangkok as more or less a travel stop for a wk or less on the way to other destinations, such as the islands or Chiang Mai in the north. Bangkok is very noisy, polluted, and dirty but I enjoyed my time visiting all the temples, walking through the bowels and alleyways of Chinatown and the surrounding markets, hanging on Khao San Rd, and doing thai kickboxing.
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